Diving Downunder

Text and photo by Terry Booth

South of the tropical Queensland waters and the more famous Great Barrier Reef lies Julian Rocks. Lapped by the Tasman Sea’s temperate swells, these volcanic sedimentary protrusions are a stones’ throw from the picturesque coastal town of Australia’s Byron Bay.

This top ten dive site hosts seasonal pelagic denizens including leopard sharks and manta rays in the summer and, for me this October trip, the grey nurse shark.

These apex predators were persecuted to near extinction, but are thankfully now protected in this established marine sanctuary.

These sharks patrol gullys at 20m depth, inhabiting the channels eroded into the substrate. Divers find sheltered
vantage points and wait expectantly, anxious not to scare off the sharks with an intrusive presence. The water is murky and rich with nutrients. Limited visibility and muffled breathing add to the tension; a distant haunting whale song adds an ethereal ambiance.

Suddenly, amidst the gloom emerges our exciting photo opportunity. Slow moving and fearsome looking, it starts to patrol menacingly and it’s muscular frame glides effortlessly towards us. Lying still in the sediment, below rocky ledges and in concealed crevices, we wait for a close encounter. We are in luck – not one but six grey nurse sharks pass us.

Within the shadows of these primordial predators, their bulk is within touching distance. Razor sharp teeth can be individually identified and gills can be seen to oscillate gently in the currents. Impressive muscular frames in excess of 10ft gently meander through the chilly waters, each sinew on display, evidence of their power.

The dive witnessed a multiplicity of interactions, testimony to the dive groups controlled and respectful behaviour.

And in these encounters a realisation of reverence occurs. This marine creature which has suffered an unjust reputation as an indiscriminate killer and threat is evidence of evolutionary perfection. It should be mankind’s great privilege to witness and admire the sharks’ beauty and grace in its natural oceanic home.

As apex predators, the ocean needs these magnificent animals to maintain the ecological balance in the seas and it is our duty and responsibility to protect these creatures and to educate those who think otherwise.